Russell sits at the heart of the Bay of Islands, a place where New Zealand’s European history began in dramatic fashion. This peaceful waterfront town, reached by a short ferry ride from Paihia, has a fascinating contrast between its tranquil present and turbulent colonial past. Once known as Kororāreka, this was New Zealand’s first European settlement, its first capital, and the scene of some of the nation’s most significant early events. Today, Russell balances its historic importance with a relaxed charm that makes it one of the Bay of Islands’ most romantic destinations. Heritage buildings line the waterfront, award-winning restaurants serve fresh local seafood, galleries showcase regional art, and walking trails lead to panoramic viewpoints. Whether you arrive for a day trip or stay to explore at a leisurely pace, Russell offers a distinctive Bay of Islands experience.
Why Russell Matters
In the early 1800s, Kororāreka (as Russell was then known) became New Zealand’s first permanent European settlement, earning its notorious reputation as the “Hell Hole of the Pacific” where whalers, sealers, and traders sought entertainment in dozens of grog shops. In 1840, it was briefly declared New Zealand’s first capital before the honour moved to Auckland.
The most dramatic chapter came in 1845 during the Flagstaff War when Ngāpuhi chief Hōne Heke repeatedly cut down the British flagpole on Maiki Hill, challenging British authority. The conflict culminated in the Battle of Kororāreka in March 1845, when the town was sacked and burned. You can still see musket ball holes in the walls of Christ Church from this battle. After the conflict, the town was rebuilt and renamed Russell in honour of the British Colonial Secretary Lord John Russell.
Today’s Russell retains its historic street layout from 1843, and many of its buildings date back to the mid-1800s. This tangible connection to New Zealand’s early European history, combined with the underlying Māori heritage of the land, makes Russell a place where the past remains very much present.
What to See & Do in Russell
Heritage & Historic Sites
Christ Church stands as New Zealand’s oldest surviving church, dating back to 1835. This simple wooden building, still in regular use for Sunday services, witnessed Russell’s turbulent early days. Walk around the exterior to find musket ball holes from the 1845 Battle of Kororāreka still visible in the walls. The churchyard cemetery tells its own stories through historic headstones, including the prominent memorial to Tāmati Wāka Nene, the powerful Ngāpuhi chief who sided with the Crown during the Northern War. The church is generally open for visitors, creating a tangible connection to New Zealand’s earliest European settlement days.
Pompallier Mission, built in 1841-42, stands as New Zealand’s oldest surviving industrial building. This remarkable rammed-earth structure served as the headquarters for the French Catholic mission, where texts were translated into te reo Māori and printed on the historic Gaveaux press. Expert-led guided tours bring the building’s history to life with hands-on demonstrations of 19th-century printing and bookbinding techniques. The award-winning Victorian heritage gardens provide a peaceful hillside setting with spectacular bay views. Open daily 10am to 4pm with tours at 10:30am, 11:30am, 1:30pm, 2:30pm, and 3:30pm.
Russell Museum (Russell Museum Whare Taonga o Kororāreka) houses an impressive collection of Māori taonga and European artifacts on historic York Street. Explore exhibits featuring Captain Cook’s visit, a replica of HM Bark Endeavour, an interactive digital mapping table, whaling artifacts, and a children’s scavenger hunt trail. This community museum receives no government funding, so admission fees directly support its operation. Open daily 10am to 4pm (last admission 3:45pm). Combined tickets available with Pompallier Mission.
Duke of Marlborough Hotel, established in 1827 (originally opened as “Johnny Johnston’s Grog Shop”) with New Zealand’s first liquor license granted in 1840, is one of the country’s earliest licensed establishments. This waterfront landmark combines historic character with modern comforts, offering 38 rooms and a restaurant that emphasizes locally sourced, seasonal produce. Even if you’re not staying overnight, the restaurant is open daily 11:30am to 9pm serving lunch and dinner. The menu features Bay of Islands seafood including fresh oysters, market fish and coastal shellfish, alongside meat dishes and vegetarian options. With a wine list of over 100 wines and some 30 beers, the waterfront deck offers one of Russell’s best spots for watching the world go by. Reservations recommended, especially during summer and busy periods.
Walking Trails & Scenic Viewpoints
Russell and its surrounding peninsula offer excellent walking, from short strolls to more challenging hikes.
Flagstaff Hill Walk (Maiki Hill) is the essential Russell walk, taking about 15 minutes uphill from the boat ramp at the end of The Strand. This hill holds immense historical significance as the site where Ngāpuhi chief Hōne Heke repeatedly cut down the British flagpole in the 1840s, challenging British authority and precipitating conflict. At the summit, a monument and sundial mark the historic spot, while upgraded viewing platforms provide jaw-dropping 360-degree views across the Bay of Islands. You’ll see Russell township below, Paihia and the Waitangi Treaty Grounds across the water, Opua to the south, and the scattered islands of the bay stretching to the horizon. The interpretive panels at the top explain the site’s significance in New Zealand’s early history. The hill is also excellent for sunset viewing. Alternatively, you can drive to the top via Wellington Street.
Tapeka Point Track starts just over the hill from Russell township (from Du Fresne Place) and follows a narrow, sometimes steep track across what were once defensive ditches of Tapeka Pā. This 1km walk takes you to the top of the Tapeka Peninsula, offering stunning views over the entire Bay of Islands from Cape Wiwiki in the north to Rakaumangamanga in the southeast. The track has steep sections but rewards walkers with beautiful coastal vistas. Popular for sunset viewing. Allow about 15 minutes each way, though the steep sections may require a more leisurely pace.
Bay of Islands Coastal Walkway – Okiato to Russell section provides a scenic 3km walk connecting Russell with Okiato (where the vehicle ferry lands). This section of the wider coastal walkway passes through regenerating native bush and offers beautiful water views. Combined with the Paihia to Opua Walkway and ferry connections, you can complete a full circuit walk around the main Bay of Islands visitor areas.
Cape Brett Track is for serious hikers seeking one of Northland’s premier overnight tramping experiences. This challenging 16km track traverses rugged terrain through native and regenerating bush from Rawhiti (30km from Russell) to Cape Brett lighthouse at the peninsula’s tip. The track climbs steeply through forested ridges before following an exposed, dramatic cliffside route with sheer drop-offs to the sea below. From the track, you’ll spot abundant marine life including dolphins and seals, and views extend to the Poor Knights Islands. Most trampers stay overnight at Cape Brett Hut (bookings required; hut and track fees apply). Many choose to walk out to the cape and arrange a water taxi pick-up from Deep Water Cove to avoid repeating the strenuous return walk. This is a full-day or overnight commitment requiring good fitness, proper equipment, and weather awareness. Check DOC website for current track conditions and water availability at the hut before attempting.
Bookings required for Cape Brett Hut via DOC website
Beaches
Long Beach (Oneroa Bay) on Russell’s eastern shore facing the Bay of Islands is the town’s premier beach destination. This sheltered, family-friendly beach offers safe swimming in calm waters, golden sand perfect for picnics, and parking along most of its length. Popular with locals and visitors alike, Long Beach provides a peaceful escape just a short walk or 5-minute drive from Russell township. Pack a boogie board, bring fish and chips from town, and enjoy the quintessential Kiwi beach experience.
Tapeka Point area beaches offer smaller, more secluded spots for swimming and relaxation, reached via the Tapeka Point walking track.
Food, Wine & Local Flavours
Russell’s compact size belies its impressive dining scene, with restaurants showcasing fresh Bay of Islands seafood, local produce, and wines from nearby vineyards.
Duke of Marlborough offers everything from casual bistro meals to fine dining in a historic waterfront setting. The deck overlooking the bay makes a perfect spot for sunset drinks and dinner. Fresh fish features prominently on menus throughout Russell. This is the Bay of Islands, after all, and the local catch is exceptional.
Omata Estate, a boutique vineyard located approximately 8km from Russell on a sunlit north-facing peninsula, combines wine production with relaxed dining and sweeping ocean views. The Omata Kitchen serves wood-fired pizzas and gourmet platters featuring locally sourced seasonal ingredients. The cellar door offers wine tasting experiences where you can sample their range while enjoying panoramic coastal vistas. The estate practices natural and sustainable viticulture. Open five days a week, 11am to 6pm (closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays). Booking recommended.
Paroa Bay Winery, another nearby vineyard, offers fine dining experiences showcasing local ingredients paired with their wines. These wineries provide a different dimension to the Russell experience, combining Bay of Islands coastal beauty with wine country atmosphere.
For more casual options, Russell township offers cafés like Delish Coffee and Ice Cream for sweet treats, fish and chip shops serving New Zealand’s iconic takeaway, and various bistros and cafés along the waterfront. The town’s restaurants range from relaxed waterfront eateries to award-winning establishments with impressive variety for such a small place.
Tours & Activities from Russell
While Russell exudes tranquility, it’s also an excellent base for Bay of Islands adventures.
Hole in the Rock cruises depart from Russell wharf as well as Paihia. These iconic Bay of Islands tours take you aboard catamarans or fast boats through the islands to Piercy Island (Motukōkako), where a massive natural archway carved by sea and wind creates the famous “Hole in the Rock.” Watch for dolphins, seals, and seabirds along the way. Various operators offer different experiences from scenic cruises to high-speed adventures.
Sailing on R. Tucker Thompson, a traditional tall ship, provides a hands-on sailing experience or relaxed sundowner cruise departing from Russell. This beautifully restored vessel offers a taste of maritime heritage combined with Bay of Islands scenery.
Fishing charters operate from Russell wharf, offering everything from casual harbour fishing to serious game fishing expeditions. The Bay of Islands is renowned for its fishing, with species ranging from snapper and kingfish close to shore to marlin and tuna in deeper waters.
Kayaking, paddleboarding, and boat hire let you explore the bay at your own pace. Rental operators in Russell provide kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, Hobie cats, and small motorboats.
Island hopping: Ferry services connect Russell to Urupukapuka Island (Otehei Bay), where walking tracks, beaches, and camping await. The island is a recreational reserve teeming with birdlife and offers excellent swimming and picnicking.
Practical Info: Getting There & Visitor Tips
Getting There
Russell is accessed either by passenger ferry from Paihia (15 minutes, multiple operators running frequent services throughout the day) or by vehicle ferry between Opua and Okiato. The passenger ferry is the most common and atmospheric way to arrive, offering beautiful bay views.
Distances: From Auckland 227km (3 hours); from Whangārei 60km (1 hour); from Kerikeri 30km (30 minutes).
See detailed directions and ferry information for getting to Russell.
Parking: Limited parking available in Russell township. During busy periods, many visitors leave vehicles in Paihia or Opua and take the passenger ferry across.
What to Bring
Comfortable walking shoes, sun protection (hat, sunscreen SPF 30+, sunglasses), camera for historic buildings and views, light rain jacket, and cash for smaller venues. For beaches and walking trails, bring swimming gear, water bottle, and snacks. For longer walks like Cape Brett, proper hiking boots, weather-appropriate clothing, plenty of water and food, first aid kit, and navigation aids are essential.
Visitor Etiquette
Russell is a living community, not just a tourist attraction. Respect local residents, particularly in quiet residential areas.
Historic sites like Christ Church and Pompallier Mission are culturally significant places. Approach them with respect, follow any guidelines provided, and remember that Christ Church is an active place of worship.
When walking trails, stay on marked tracks to protect the environment and archaeological sites.
Accessibility
Russell’s compact, relatively flat township centre is easy to navigate for those with mobility limitations. However, walking trails like Flagstaff Hill and Tapeka Point involve steep sections and may not be accessible to all visitors. Flagstaff Hill can be reached by car. Contact specific attractions in advance regarding accessibility requirements.
Local Listings to Explore
Tours & Activities
Pompallier Mission & Printery New Zealand’s oldest industrial building offering guided tours with hands-on printing and bookbinding demonstrations, heritage gardens with bay views, and French Coffee House. Expert-led tours at 10:30am, 11:30am, 1:30pm, 2:30pm, and 3:30pm daily. Open daily 10am-4pm.
Russell Museum Community museum on York Street featuring Māori taonga, European artifacts, interactive digital mapping table, Captain Cook’s Endeavour replica, and children’s scavenger hunt. Self-guided visits. Open daily 10am-4pm (last admission 3:45pm).
Browse more Tours & Activities in the Bay of Islands
Accommodation Near Russell
Find your perfect Russell base from waterfront lodges and boutique B&Bs to budget-friendly backpackers and self-contained apartments. Staying in Russell offers a peaceful alternative to busier Paihia while maintaining easy access to the entire Bay of Islands.
Browse Accommodation options in the Bay of Islands
Food & Drink
Duke of Marlborough Hotel New Zealand’s oldest licensed hotel serving everything from casual bistro meals to fine dining on the waterfront. Historic atmosphere, excellent food, stunning views. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Omata Estate Boutique vineyard and restaurant 8km from Russell serving wood-fired pizzas and gourmet platters with ocean views. Cellar door wine tastings available. Open 11am-6pm, closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Booking recommended.
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