Wharepuke Falls

Wharepuke Falls is one of those Kerikeri walks that delivers more than you’d expect from its modest reputation. This small waterfall sits on the Kerikeri River, accessed via well-maintained forest tracks that wind along the riverbank through native bush and past swimming holes locals have enjoyed for generations.

The walk appeals to everyone from families wanting an easy forest ramble to swimmers looking for freshwater pools. The falls themselves aren’t dramatic by New Zealand standards (no towering plunge into a deep gorge), but they’re appealing in their forest setting, and the walk to reach them is half the experience.

Wharepuke Falls forms part of the wider Kerikeri River Track network, connecting several waterfalls and swimming spots along the river between Kerikeri township and Rainbow Falls. You can walk to Wharepuke as a standalone destination, or combine it with other sections for a longer outing.

Location and Access

The falls sit on the Kerikeri River, roughly 2km upstream from the historic Stone Store Basin in central Kerikeri. Most people access the track from the Stone Store Basin car park, which has good parking, toilets, and clear signage.

From the Stone Store car park, the track to Wharepuke Falls heads upstream along the river’s true right bank (right side when facing downstream). Well-marked and impossible to miss once you’ve oriented yourself at the information boards.

The track connects with routes to Rainbow Falls and the Fairy Pools, so you can extend your walk in either direction. The full Kerikeri River Track from Stone Store to Rainbow Falls covers about 5km one way, with Wharepuke Falls roughly at the halfway point.

Parking at Stone Store Basin is free and reasonably plentiful, though it fills during summer holidays and long weekends. Arrive early if you’re visiting during peak periods. There are public toilets at the Stone Store precinct, the only facilities you’ll find along this section.

The Track

The walk from Stone Store Basin to Wharepuke Falls covers approximately 2km one way, taking most people 30 to 40 minutes at a comfortable pace. Return is double that, so allow 1.5 to 2 hours total including time at the falls.

The track is graded easy and genuinely is easy. Well-formed throughout, mostly flat or gently undulating, with only minor elevation changes. The path is compact earth, gravel, and boardwalk sections over wet areas.

This is proper family-friendly walking. Young children manage it without difficulty, and you’ll regularly see families, older walkers, and even the occasional pushchair on easier sections (though pushchairs struggle with some boardwalk steps and narrower parts).

You’re walking through native bush with the river always close by, sometimes visible through the trees, sometimes hidden but audible. There are small inclines where the track climbs over tree roots or rocky outcrops, and some sections can be muddy after rain, but nothing challenging.

Boardwalk sections protect wet areas and provide easier footing. These are well-maintained and safe, though they can be slippery when wet.

Native Forest

The track passes through coastal lowland forest typical of Northland: pūriri, taraire, and kohekohe forming the canopy, with tree ferns, nikau palms, and various smaller natives in the understory.

The river-edge vegetation is particularly lush. Ferns crowd the banks, and in places the forest canopy closes overhead creating that enclosed, atmospheric feeling that makes New Zealand bush walking special.

The forest here is recovering from historical modification but doing well. Native seedlings are establishing, pest control is ongoing. It’s not pristine wilderness, but it’s healthy forest that provides good habitat.

Kerikeri River

The river is a constant companion along the walk. At this point the Kerikeri River is gentle and meandering, with small rapids, deep pools, and quieter flowing sections. The water is usually clear, and you can often see fish cruising the pools.

There are several informal swimming spots along the route where locals have been swimming for decades. These aren’t developed swimming areas with facilities, just natural pools where the river deepens and the banks provide access.

The sound of flowing water is constant, sometimes just a gentle murmur, other times the louder rush of rapids or small cascades.

Historic Features

The lower section near Stone Store Basin passes close to sites of historical significance. The Stone Store itself is New Zealand’s oldest surviving stone building (1836), built as a mission supply store. The adjacent Kerikeri Mission House dates to 1822 and is New Zealand’s oldest surviving building.

These mission-era structures represent early European settlement, and the surrounding area was central to early interactions between missionaries and local Māori. Walking the river track gives you a sense of why this location was chosen: fresh water, fertile land, and navigable access from the coast.

Further upstream, you’re walking through landscape that supported Māori communities long before European arrival. The river provided food (eels, freshwater fish, whitebait in season) and water for cultivation.

Wharepuke Falls

The falls appear as the track approaches the upper section. You’ll hear them before you see them: that distinctive sound of water falling over rock.

Wharepuke Falls drop about 3 to 4m across a rock face, creating a wide curtain of water rather than a single plunging stream. The shape varies with water flow. After heavy rain the falls can be quite impressive, while during dry summer periods they’re more gentle.

The setting is what makes them appealing. The falls sit in a natural amphitheatre of native bush, with ferns and moss covering the surrounding rocks. There’s a viewing area at the base where you can get close to the falling water, and the spray creates a cool microclimate that’s pleasant on hot days.

Best vantage point is from the base, looking up at the falls with the forest framing them. Early morning light works well when the sun filters through the canopy and catches the spray.

Swimming and Safety

Swimming near Wharepuke Falls is common, particularly in the pools above and below the falls. Locals have been swimming here for generations, and on hot summer days you’ll often find families enjoying the freshwater pools.

However, swimming requires appropriate caution. The rocks around the falls are slippery. Moss and algae create genuinely hazardous surfaces when wet. People have been injured slipping on these rocks, so watch your footing carefully if you’re getting in or out of the water.

Water flow varies significantly with recent rainfall. After heavy rain, the current becomes stronger and the water murkier. What’s a pleasant swimming hole in summer can become dangerous after a storm. Check conditions before swimming, and if the water is flowing strongly or is discoloured, give it a miss.

The pools can be surprisingly deep in places, and submerged rocks aren’t always visible. Enter cautiously, and don’t dive or jump unless you know the pool well.

Don’t use soap or shampoo in the river. These pollute the water and harm aquatic life. Take all rubbish out with you. And if you see eels (common in the Kerikeri River), leave them alone. They’re an important part of the ecosystem and can bite if harassed.

Culture and History

The Kerikeri River holds deep significance for Māori, particularly for Ngāpuhi iwi who have occupied this region for hundreds of years. The river provided essential resources: fresh water, food, and water for cultivation. The fertile land around the river supported substantial communities long before European arrival.

Kororipo Pā, a significant historical pā site, sits near the Stone Store at the river mouth. This was the home of the rangatira (chief) Hongi Hika and his people, and it played a central role in early Māori-European interactions when missionaries established their station nearby in the 1820s.

Walking the river track, you’re moving through landscape layered with history: Māori occupation stretching back centuries, the mission era of the early 19th century, and the subsequent development of Kerikeri as a horticultural centre.

Tips for Walkers

The track is shared-use in sections, meaning you might encounter mountain bikers, though bike traffic is generally light on the Wharepuke Falls section.

Sturdy walking shoes or trail runners are recommended. The track is generally good, but there are muddy sections, tree roots, and potentially slippery boardwalks. Jandals work in dry conditions if you’re careful, but aren’t ideal if it’s been wet.

Bring water, particularly in summer. There’s no drinking water along the track. A litre per person is adequate for most people on a return walk to the falls.

Insect repellent helps, particularly for sandflies. The forest and riverside environment can have sandflies, especially in still, warm conditions. Not always a problem, but annoying when they are.

Best times to visit are early morning or late afternoon for better light and fewer people. Weekdays are generally quieter than weekends, and outside of school holidays you’ll often have the track largely to yourself.

Nearby Walks and Add-Ons

The obvious extension is to continue upstream to Rainbow Falls, which adds another 2.5km one way. Rainbow Falls is more dramatic than Wharepuke, dropping 27m in a single plunge, and is Kerikeri’s most famous waterfall. Combining Wharepuke and Rainbow Falls makes a good half-day walk covering about 9km return from Stone Store.

The Fairy Pools are another option, accessible from a different section of the river. These are a series of small pools and cascades popular for swimming.

The Stone Store precinct deserves time either before or after your walk. The Stone Store and Mission House are open to visitors (with admission fees), and the heritage gardens provide historical context for the region.

Kerikeri township has numerous cafés and restaurants for post-walk refreshments. The town centre is about 2km from the Stone Store. Kerikeri is known for its food scene, orchards, and artisan producers.

A Rewarding Forest and River Walk

Wharepuke Falls represents the kind of accessible outdoor experience that the Bay of Islands does well: native forest, flowing water, the option to swim, manageable distances, and that combination of natural beauty and historical context.

It’s not a wilderness experience. You’re close to town, the track is well-formed, and you’ll see other people, particularly on summer weekends. But that accessibility is part of the appeal. Families can walk it comfortably, visitors get a genuine native bush and river experience without needing serious fitness, and locals have a walk they can do regularly without it becoming boring.

The falls themselves are modest but appealing in their forest setting, the river provides constant interest and the option to swim, and the native bush is healthy and improving.

For anyone staying in Kerikeri or visiting the Bay of Islands, Wharepuke Falls is worth the time. It combines easy walking, natural beauty, and the opportunity to experience one of Northland’s gentle rivers in attractive forest surroundings.

Photo Credits – “Wharepuke Falls” by Russell Street is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0